Home Energy Audit Checklist 2026

Key Takeaways

Maximizing your energy savings is easier when you know where to start. Use this checklist to track down (and fix) common energy wasters so you can save on energy costs and improve indoor comfort all year long. 

Here’s what you’ll learn:

• A home energy audit is a step-by-step inspection that helps you find where your home is wasting energy and money.  
• The biggest savings often come from sealing air leaks and improving insulation, especially in the attic and other parts of your home’s “shell.”
• Heating and cooling (HVAC) systems are the largest energy consumers in most homes. That’s why it’s crucial to prioritize HVAC maintenance, replace air filters regularly and keep your system running efficiently.
• This checklist helps you work room by room to spot common problems, like drafty windows, leaky doors and energy-hungry devices. 
• A DIY audit is a strong start, but a professional assessment can take it a few steps further with tools like blower door testing and thermographic (infrared) scanning to find hidden issues.

Ready to begin? Grab a notepad or your smartphone and start with the basics. 

1. Check for gaps and air leaks

Walk the perimeter of your home and look closely for any cracks and gaps where two different materials meet. These seams are common leak points, and they’re easy to miss until you know where to look.  

What to look for: 

Air leaks aren’t always visible, but the openings where air escapes usually are. Here’s what a “gap” or “leak” can look like:

• A thin crack line where sealant has split, dried out or pulled away from the surface.
• A visible separation where trim meets siding, siding meets foundation or two materials “should” touch but don’t.
• Holes or rough openings around pipes, vents, wires or conduit that pass through the wall.
• Loose or crumbling caulk, foam, mortar or anything that looks broken, missing or shifted. 
• Dark lines, dust streaks or grime around a seam (sometimes air movement leaves a “track”).
• Any place you can see daylight from inside around a frame or penetration (this is a sign of a leak). 

Where to look:

Check the following areas for leaks as you walk around the outside of your home: 

• All exterior corners. 
• Where siding touches the foundation, trim or other exterior finishes. 
• Where your chimney meets siding. 
• Where the foundation meets exterior brick or siding along the bottom edge. 
• Anywhere pipes, vents or conduits enter the house. 
• Outdoor hose bibs, faucets, vents, wiring, pipes or other wall penetrations. 
• Electrical and gas service entrances (where lines enter your home)
• Exterior light fixtures, outlets or service panels. Check the edges where they meet the wall. 
• Separated or crumbling sealant where two different types of materials meet, especially around doors and windows. 

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSM Tip: If you find gaps, it’s easy and quick to seal them with caulk or other appropriate sealants, depending on the size and location. Watch this quick video to learn more.

2. Inspect windows and doors

Windows and doors are some of the most common spots for air leaks, especially if seals are aging or materials have shifted over time. The DOE specifically recommends checking around windows and doors for gaps, worn caulk or weatherstripping and frames that don’t close tightly.  

What to look for: 

• Gaps between the frame and the wall, or trim that’s pulled away from the surface.
• Cracked, peeling or missing caulk along exterior seams. (If it looks dried out, split or flaky, it may not be sealing anymore.)  
• Worn weatherstripping, which can look like flattened, brittle, torn or missing sections.  
• Loose-fitting doors/windows that don’t shut snugly (or you can feel movement when you gently push on them).
• Draft clues like dust streaks or grime lines near edges and corners (air movement can leave tracks). 

Where to look:

• Around all window frames, especially the top corners and bottom edges.
• Along door frames, thresholds and door sweeps (the bottom edge).
• Anywhere you see caulk lines, including where trim meets siding and where frames meet the exterior wall.
• Storm doors and storm windows (if you have them): check fit and closure so they seal tightly.

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSM Tip: If you find leaks, start with caulk and weatherstripping; they’re typically low-cost fixes that can make a noticeable comfort difference fast. Watch this quick video to learn more.

3. Examine the foundation

Your foundation is part of your building envelope, and gaps or cracks here can let in outside air and moisture, which can affect comfort and efficiency.

What to look for: 

• Visible cracks in foundation walls or exposed slab edges.
• Gaps where the foundation meets siding, brick or other exterior materials, especially along the bottom edge.
• Holes or rough openings where utility lines enter near the foundation, such as pipes, conduit or cable lines. 
• Signs of moisture near cracks, such as staining, discoloration or damp-looking patches

Where to look:

• The full perimeter at ground level, especially where the foundation meets exterior brick or siding. 
• Corners of the foundation and areas near downspouts or heavy drainage flow. These zones tend to show issues first.
• Around service entry points near the foundation, especially where electrical, gas and other lines enter the house.

What to look for:

• Insulation that looks thin, uneven or compressed.
• Bare spots where insulation has shifted or settled.
• Dirty or dark streaks, which is a sign of air movement.
• Gaps around plumbing vents, recessed lights or wiring.
• An attic hatch that doesn’t close tightly or isn’t insulated.
• Insulation that is either below or level with your attic joists. (This may indicate that you need to add insulation to meet the recommended levels for your climate zone). 

Where to look:

• Across the entire attic floor.
• Around chimneys, vent stacks and pipe penetrations.
• Around recessed lighting fixtures.
• At the attic hatch or pull-down stairs. Check that it closes tightly, has weatherstripping and is insulated.
• Where ceiling drywall meets framing.
• Around electrical wiring penetrations and junction boxes (look for open holes).
• Around ductwork (if present), especially where ducts connect or bend.

🦺 Safety Tip: Don’t step between joists. If the attic is hard to access or if you see anything concerning (moisture, mold-like staining, damaged wiring), make a note and consider calling a pro.

5. The Basement or Crawlspace

Your basement or crawlspace may be out of sight, but it plays a major role in your comfort and energy bills. For example, if your floors feel cold in the winter, you may have air leaks or insufficient insulation in your basement or crawlspace.  

When you inspect your home’s underground levels, you’ll need to focus on the area where the foundation meets the wood framing. This is called the rim joist, and it’s a common source of air leakage.

What to look for:

• Bare rim joists with no insulation.
• Visible gaps where wood meets concrete or masonry.
• Cracks or holes where pipes, wires or ducts enter.
• Drafts near the perimeter of the basement ceiling.
• Signs of moisture.
• Damp, compressed, fallen, missing or hanging insulation. 
• Signs of airflow, including dust streaks, cobweb movements and insulation that looks darkened near the seams. 

Where to look:

• Around the entire rim joist band, or the band of wood where the foundation meets the framing at the top of the foundation wall.
• Along the edges of your basement ceiling. 
• Around ductwork or plumbing. Look for disconnected joints. 
• Crawlspace access doors and vents. Check for gaps and poor sealing.
• Sill plate areas where the bottom of the frame sits on the foundation.
• Around pipe and wire penetrations, including hose bibs, water lines, cable lines and vents.

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSMSM Tip: Sealing and insulating rim joists is one of the highest-impact upgrades for improving comfort and reducing heat loss through the floor.

6. Windows and Doors (from the inside)

Even if your windows looked fine from the outside, you may feel leaks from inside, especially on cool, windy days. To locate hidden leaks, try lighting an incense stick and setting it down on a stable surface near each window and door. If the smoke drifts to a particular spot along the frame, check to see if there’s an air leak.

What to look for:

• Noticeable drafts when standing near frames.
• Flattened, cracked, brittle or missing weatherstripping.
• Visible daylight around door frames.
• Rattling windows or doors that shift when pushed.
• Gaps where the interior trim meets the wall. 
• Door sweeps that don’t touch the threshold, cover the entire width of the door or have visible gaps.
• If using an incense stick, watch for smoke that drifts or wavers near the edges of the windows and doors. 

Where to look:

• Every window and exterior door:
• Around the sides and top of the frame.
• Along the bottom edge, thresholds and door sweeps.
• At your windows’ locks and latches. Poor alignment can prevent windows from sealing shut. 
• Along sliding door tracks.
• Around storm window frames. 

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSM Tip: Not sure which product is best for sealing indoor air leaks? Use weatherstripping to seal any movable parts, like doors and windows that open and shut. To seal stationary seams, use caulk. 

7. Electrical Outlets and Switch Plates

Small leaks add up. Outlets and switches on exterior walls often allow tiny amounts of air movement that you’d never notice without checking intentionally.

What to look for:

• Cool air around outlet edges.
• Slight draft sensation when you place your hand nearby.
• Gaps between the wall and the electrical box.
• Outlets located on exterior-facing walls.

Where to look:

• All outlets and switches on exterior walls.
• Behind large furniture where outlets may be hidden.
• Around cable or phone wall plates.
  

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSM Tip: Foam gaskets installed behind faceplates are inexpensive and can reduce small air leaks in minutes. You can also plug plastic covers into unused outlets. Watch this quick video to see it in action. 

What to look for:

• Incandescent bulbs, which emit heat and burn out faster. Practice caution and don’t touch the bulbs directly to avoid getting burned. 
• Older CFL bulbs that look curly. They also emit heat and may not function properly in certain light fixtures.
• Fixtures get a lot of use and stay on the longest, like kitchen lights, porch lights or living room lamps.

Where to look:

• Kitchen and living room fixtures that are used daily.
• Porch, driveway and exterior lights that run at night.
• Bathroom vanity lights and hallway lights that get frequent use.
• The place where you store your spare light bulbs. Check for extra bulbs or product packaging to figure out which bulbs you’re using.

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSM Tip: Start with replacing the bulbs you use for the most hours per day to get the quickest payoff. 

9. Refrigerator and Freezer

Your fridge and freezer stay running around the clock to keep your food cold and safe. That’s why even small issues, like a bad door seal or the wrong temperature setting, can waste energy nonstop. 

What to look for:

• Unsafe or inefficient temperature settings. Too cold can waste energy, and too warm can put your food at risk. The DOE recommends keeping your refrigerator in the 35°F–38°F range and your freezer at 0°F for efficient operation. For food safety, the FDA recommends keeping your refrigerator at 40°F or below. 
• Worn door gaskets that don’t seal tightly. To test door seals, close the door on a dollar bill, then slowly tug on the bill. If it slides out easily, the gasket may be leaking. 
• Frost buildup, condensation or “sweating” around the door edges.
• Dust buildup around vents and coils. 
• A fridge that runs constantly or hums loudly for long stretches, which can be a sign it’s working too hard.

Where to look:

• Temperature settings: Between 35–38°F for refrigerators and 0°F for freezers. Most have a switch that lets you control the temperature. Some are located inside along the top, while others are located inside along the bottom. If you have a “smart” fridge, you may be able to control it with an app or display screen on the outside of the appliance. 
• Door seals. 
• Door edges and corners.
• The back and underside of the fridge, if accessible. 

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSM Tip: If a gasket is damaged, replacing it is often a low-cost fix that can help your fridge hold temperature more efficiently.

10. Electronics (Vampire Power)

Some electronics draw power even when you’re not actively using them, especially anything with a remote, a digital display or a “standby” light. The DOE recommends using programmable or smart power strips to reduce this kind of standby use.

What to look for:

• Devices that glow, display a clock, light up or stay warm even when “off.”
• Chargers that stay plugged in all the time, even when nothing is charging.
• Entertainment setups that include multiple always-on devices. Common culprits include TVs, streaming boxes, game consoles sound systems.
• Anything that needs a remote control to turn off. This typically means it’s in a standby power mode.
  

Where to look:

• Turn off the lights and look around the room for devices with lights or digital clocks that glow even when the device is “off.”
• TV and entertainment centers, including TVs, consoles, streaming devices and speakers.
• Home office setups, including printers, monitors and docking stations.
• Kitchen counters. Check microwaves with clocks and coffee makers with displays.
• Check bedrooms for chargers, lamps with adapters, fans and air filters. 

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSM Tip: Put your “whole setup” on one smart power strip so it powers down together when you’re done for the night. done for the night.

11. Computers

Computers and monitors can use a lot more energy than most people realize,  especially if they stay awake all day. ENERGY STAR recommends enabling power management features like sleep mode so devices use less energy when they’re inactive.

What to look for: 

• Sleep settings that are turned off or set to “never” power off.
• Screens that stay on all day when nobody’s using them.
• Desktops that run continuously instead of using sleep or hibernate modes.
• Multiple monitors that stay on even when you step away.
  

Where to look:

• Your computer’s power settings. Check your settings menus for keywords like Power & Battery, Power Options or Energy Saver settings.
• Built-in-settings on your monitor or display.
  

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSM Tip: If you step away often, set your display to sleep after a few minutes and set your computer to sleep several minutes later. This can help you effortlessly save energy. 

What to look for:

• A filter that looks gray, dusty or clogged. When airflow through the filter is restricted, your HVAC system is less efficient. 
• Rooms that heat/cool unevenly (one room is always hotter/colder than the rest).
• Whistling airflow, rattling duct sections or “whooshing” sounds near vents.
• Dust streaks or dark smudges around duct seams, connections or vent boots. This could indicate that air is leaking.
• Duct sections that look loose, disconnected, sagging or crushed (common in attics and crawlspaces).

Where to look:

• Air filters at the return grille, which is often a large intake vent in a hallway, ceiling or wall, or inside the furnace or air handler cabinet, which is often in a basement, closet, attic or utility room.
• Accessible ductwork in the basement, crawlspace and attic. Look at the connections, bends and taped or sealed seams. 
• Supply vents and returns. Check for loose grilles, visible gaps around the vent edges or unusual dust patterns.
  

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSM Tip: If you can’t remember the last time you changed your air filter, go ahead and swap it now. It’s one of the quickest ways to protect airflow and efficiency. Set a recurring reminder so it stays easy.

13. Water Heater

Your water heater works quietly in the background every day, so small tweaks can prevent monthly energy waste. The DOE recommends setting most water heaters to 120°F (49°C) for maximum efficiency. recommends setting most water heaters to 120°F (49°C) for maximum efficiency. 

What to look for:

• A temperature setting higher than 120ºF. Hotter water can lead to higher standby losses.
• Hot water pipes near the tank that are uninsulated. This may be causing your hot water to lose heat.
• A tank that feels warm or hot to the touch. Older units may benefit from an insulation blanket if manufacturer guidance allows.
• Signs of leaks or corrosion, such as puddling liquid, rust streaks, mineral buildup or dampness near fittings/valves.

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSM Tip: If you adjust the temperature, give it a day. Then see if your showers still feel comfortable. If you have a dishwasher without a booster heater, check its manual for temperature needs before lowering the setting.

14. Dryer Vent

Dryer vents are not only an efficiency issue — they also impact your safety from fire hazards. When lint builds up, your dryer may run longer, causing it to waste energy as the risk of a dryer fire increases. In fact, a U.S. Fire Administration report found that failure to clean dryers was a leading factor contributing to ignition in reported dryer fires. Follow these tips to check for both efficiency and safety. 

What to look for:

• A vent hose that’s kinked, crushed or excessively long (restricts airflow).
• Lint buildup around the lint screen area, behind the dryer or at vent connections.
• Clothes taking longer than normal to dry (often a sign of restricted exhaust).
• Excess heat or humidity in the laundry area while the dryer runs.
• Outside vent flap that doesn’t open fully when the dryer is on (airflow is blocked).

Where to look:

• Behind the dryer. Check the vent hose path from dryer to wall. Look for bends, sags, kinks and loose connections.
• At the wall connection, where the vent duct enters the wall. Lint often collects at transitions.
• The exterior vent cover. Confirm that the flap opens and closes freely and the vent cover isn’t clogged with lint or debris.
• The lint trap. Check for tears or warping. Clean it thoroughly, and make sure to clean it every load, every time.
  

👩‍🔧 EPB Energy ProsSM Tip: If you’re choosing between “get it done later” tasks, bump dryer vent cleaning to the top of the list to improve performance and reduce the risk of a lint-related house fire.

Begin by sorting your to-do list into two buckets:

16. Weekend Fixes: Quick, low-cost or no-cost projects.

This bucket is for quick projects that make a noticeable difference in comfort and savings. Complete these “easy wins” first to see instant results and build momentum.

Here are some improvements you can include on this list if your home needs them. 

• Air Sealing: Apply caulk and weatherstripping around windows, doors and other small gaps. Plug plastic outlet covers into any outlets that are not being used. Place draft-stoppers or rolled-up blankets at the base of exterior doors that feel drafty. Sealing air leaks is one of the most effective first steps for reducing heating and cooling loss, according to the DOE.
  
  
• Maintenance Chores: This can include recurring or seasonal tasks, such as replacing HVAC filters every 90 days (or monthly if you have pets), thoroughly cleaning your dryer’s lint-catching screens and adjusting settings on your appliances.
  
• Setting Up Healthy Power Habits: Plug “vampire” electronics (devices that drain energy even when not in use, such as chargers or set top boxes) into smart power strips or outlets so that you can cut off power when they’re not in use. It’s also a good idea to enable eco-friendly sleep and power settings on your computers.
  
• Replace Older Light Bulbs With LEDs: Start by identifying the light fixtures you use the most, and swap out the bulbs with energy-efficient LEDs, which use 75% less energy than incandescent bulbs, stay cool to the touch and last up to 25 times longer.  Over time, replace every bulb in your house with LEDs (or smart LED bulbs that you can control from an app).
  

17. Bigger Upgrades: Plan and budget for more complex tasks.

This bucket is for improvements that take more time, planning or money, but they can deliver some of the biggest long-term comfort and savings. In most homes, it’s smart to knock out the easy air-sealing and maintenance fixes first, then use what you learned during your audit to decide which larger upgrades are worth it.

Here are some upgrades you can include on this list if your home needs them:

• Add or Upgrade Your Insulation: If your attic insulation is thin, uneven or below recommended levels for your climate zone, adding insulation can help your home hold temperature more consistently year-round. Many homes are under-insulated, and improving insulation can help reduce heating and cooling waste by slowing down heat transfer through your home’s “shell.” A common best practice is to seal air leaks first, then add insulation so you’re not insulating “leaky” air pathways.
  
• Seal and Repair Ductwork: If you found disconnected duct sections, dusty streaks at seams or loose joints in the attic, basement or crawlspace, duct sealing and repairs can make a major difference in airflow and comfort. Leaky ducts can cause your HVAC system to work harder than it should and contribute to hot or cold rooms, weak airflow and higher monthly bills. Depending on where the ducts are located and how accessible they are, this may be a DIY job if the gaps are small, or it may need to be repaired by a professional if there are larger leaks, damaged sections or poor connections.
  
• Improve Windows and Doors: Weatherstripping and caulk help a lot, but if you have old, warped, damaged or single-pane windows, or doors that don’t sit squarely in their frames, you may keep fighting drafts no matter how much you seal. In that case, upgrades like storm windows, door repair or replacement, window repair or replacement or smaller fixes, like replacing a worn threshold or adjusting hinges, can help your home hold temperature more consistently. Focus first on the draftiest windows and doors and the rooms that never feel comfortable.
  
• Upgrade Major Equipment: If your audit points to bigger issues, like uneven temperatures, an HVAC system short-cycles or runs nonstop, or stubbornly high bills, it may be time to look beyond filter changes and basic maintenance. A qualified pro can help you decide whether a tune-up, repair or replacement makes the most sense based on your home’s size and layout. The same goes for water heaters that are aging, leaking or struggling to keep up.
  
• Address Moisture and Ventilation Problems: Sometimes energy loss shows up as moisture: damp crawlspaces, musty smells, condensation or staining. If that’s what you’re finding, bigger fixes might include improving drainage near the foundation, adding a vapor barrier, sealing a crawlspace or upgrading bathroom or kitchen ventilation so humidity doesn’t linger indoors.
  

Once your list is sorted, pick one or two weekend fixes you can knock out first, then choose one “bigger upgrade” to research, price out or get a quote for next. Even small improvements add up, and the more you work through your plan, the easier it gets to spot where your next best savings will come from.

Consider working with a professional if any of the following apply to your home:

• You still have rooms that are too hot or too cold, stubborn drafts or humidity issues that won’t go away even after sealing obvious leaks.
  
• Your energy bills are high even after you’ve completed a few energy-saving projects on your to-do list.
  
• You want a clearer plan before investing in bigger upgrades. A professional assessment can uncover improvements that significantly reduce energy use, according to the DOE.

If you’re an EPB customer, the EPB Energy ProsSM are available to help you find all the ways to save at no cost to you. Schedule a free EPB Home Energy CheckupSM or a 30-minute phone call (or chat session) to get answers to all your energy questions. Learn more.